Julien Coudray The 10 keys to Julien Coudray

— The discreet Julien Coudray 1518 brand features a set of highly distinctive characteristics. Here are 10 keys to the door of its workshop in Le Locle.

Julien Coudray


All those acquainted with Julien Coudray 1518, raise their hands! Some may be vaguely aware of the brand name, others of its creations that arrive in sparing quantities on the market, and others may know some of the people behind it. On the whole, however, Julien Coudray 1518 remains somewhat mysterious. WorldTempus raises the veil on ten key elements of the Manufacture.

1. An integrated – and shared – Manufacture

Julien Coudray 1518 is a Manufacture that has just reached its fifth anniversary. So how has this integration been achieved so rapidly? Perhaps because like many others, such as Greubel Forsey and its partnership with Complitime, Julien Coudray 1518 operates in tandem with IMH, the technical source of its production. IMH develops and produces for Julien Coudray 1518, but not exclusively so, since the brand has several external clients.

2. A Swiss-Belgian brand

In January 2015, Julien Coudray 1518 was entirely taken over by an independent family shareholder of Belgian nationality, Joris Ide (along with his son Enzo), who already owned the Lebeau-Couraly watch brand that informed connoisseurs noticed in Hall 1.1 at Baselworld this year. The two brands operate in parallel in two very distinct segments, but they are both served by the shared IMH production facility.

3. Snob-free metals

Julien Coudray 1518 specifically precludes from its production all ‘snob’ metals in the literal sense of the term – meaning those that are sin nobilitas, lacking nobility, or commonplace. That is why the youthful brand uses only four metals: white, yellow and pink gold, as well as platinum.

4. Watchmaking ingot

The Manufacture has a very special attribute: all its components are machined from a single one-kilo block of these metals. From this precious ingot, Julien Coudray 1518 carves out the case, hands, as well as many other components that are not made of traditional brass as is generally done in these modern times. In the case of a platinum model, even the bridges are made of platinum.

Julien Coudray

The case and movement come from the same block of platinum – or gold, as in this instance.
© replica rolex watches

5. Bye bye galvano

Julien Coudray 1518 has proscribed any electroplating surface treatments on its creations. Its range will therefore never comprise any rhodium-plated components. All will instead feature a finish – generally a mirror (or specular) polish – applied to the pure metal surface.

6. Four years, four references

Julien Coudray is fond of figures. The brand whose name includes the number 1518 has so far developed and produced four models: the 1515, 1528, 1548 and 1588. Contrary to appearances, these do not refer to dates, but to a century (the 16th) followed by the number of watches to be produced for each reference concerned. The 1515 is thus issued in a 15-piece edition, the 1528 in a 28-piece series, etc. Since Julien Coudray produces only one or two watches per month, this road map will take the firm until at least 2020!

7. Extremely vertical integration

Julien Coudray regroups 30 people exercising 40 different professions, most of which exist individually in traditional Manufactures. Very few however – or in fact none at all – can lay claim to such a ratio between a very small number of employees and an impressively broad range of skills.

Julien Coudray

Enamel and particularly miniature enamel painting are recurrent features on most creations by Julien Coudray 1518.
© breitling replica

8. Boundless tradition

This is a deliberate policy and is observed to the letter: Julien Coudray 1518 honours watchmaking traditions by refusing to use any modern or high-tech materials. By way of example, despite the incomparable breakthrough technological advantages afforded by silicon, the latter finds no place in a Julien Coudray watch movement – or at any rate not for at least a century… until the material itself becomes part of tradition!

9. Horological oil change

Julien Coudray 1518 watches are currently the only models to feature a service indicator in the form of an oil drop appearing through an aperture at 12 o’clock and gradually disappearing after four years as a reminder that it’s time for a maintenance service.

10. Two of everything

Julien Coudray 1518 produces a kit of spare parts for each watch sold. Each numbered kit is stored in a safe and can be used when components need to be replaced in 20, 50, 100 or more years’ time!

Julien Coudray

Each model, such as this Competentia, may be personalised at the customer’s request.
© Julien Coudray

Dive Watches 101: What Did Divers Use Before Dive Watches?

When Rolex and Blancpainlaunched their first tag heuer replica watches sale  wristwatches for divers in the early 1950s they did, in fact, create the archetype of the modern dive watch, thanks to the development of the quintessential rotating bezel. However, they did not invent the first watch used by divers.

If we travel back in time, we find that World War II (and, especially, the frogmen of the Italian Navy) demonstrated the potential of underwater warfare and thus the need for salvage. This, in turn, further increased the need for water-resistant watches in order to better conduct underwater missions involving timing and navigation. The 1940s marked the introduction of various water-resistant watches and, of course, the canteen-style watches that were equipped with little more than an additional crown cap for increased water resistance. Earlier, in the 1930s, there was Panerai supplying the Italian naval divers with various instruments as well as (in cooperation with Rolex) some of the first specifically developed watches for divers.Hard Hat Pocket Watch Case for divers

Four years before that, and in a much more civilian environment, Omega launched the rectangular Marine, with a patented double sliding and removable case, which was (at least theoretically) water-resistant to a depth of more than 100 meters. Because of these attributes, the Marine was successfully used by underwater pioneers such as William Beebe (up to 14 meters) and Yves Le Prieur.

But we still have to travel a bit further back to get to the fake rolex sale online beginning: In the 1920s, watch companies had already introduced various types of water-resistant watch cases for the increasingly popular wristwatch or “wristlet,” with the Rolex Oyster case as the most prominent example thanks to Mercedes Gleitze’s heavily advertised record swim. But the world beneath the deep, and with it the diver as a target audience, was basically nonexistent to the watch industry, as was the concept of horizontal, autonomous movement underwater.

It was the era of the hard hat diver. From the 1820s on, a few brave men started to walk on the seafloor using inventions that were initially intended for firefighting. Air was constantly supplied from the surface, and measuring time underwater was most likely not these men’s first priority. An increase in deep-sea exploration and the ongoing industrialization of diving led to the first autonomous diving helmets in the early 20th century, and with these also came an increased need for the diver to know how much time he spent underwater. The watch industry was already experimenting with water-resistant pocket watches for different reasons, and the idea of an external pocket watch on a diver’s suit thankfully was not pursued, given the physically demanding tasks performed by the divers.

The solution was much simpler: Divers mounted pocketwatches on the inside of their diving helmets, so that they always had the time in their sight, right next to the depth meter. One way of doing this was by affixing a second watch case to the helmet first (as pictured), so that the watch itself could be removed whenever needed.

So, the first thing a diver saw and heard after the command, “Hat the diver!” was a ticking pocketwatch on the inside of his helmet, which aaa replica rolex watches  hopefully never got wet.