Omega Geneve – A Rare Chronometer

When watch lovers look at the Omega Geneve collection most of them think about the lower valued so called entry-level vintage Omegas. It is wide known among Omega collectors that back in the day when Omega introduced the Geneve collection it was meant to be one of the flagship lines of the brand though. By the mid- to late 1960s Omega shifted their attention.

The Speedmaster collection was very successful (and we all know why). The Seamaster collection with its diver discount fake  watches was also doing great and with the introduction of a few new Seamaster chronographs the brand was getting to a wider audience than ever before. Older collections like the Omega Geneve was re-positioned and put in the market as a entry-level watch.

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Omega Geneve

The designs of the 1970s Omega Geneve watches were outstanding nonetheless. So many different shapes and colors hardly any other Omega collection could compete with that. The cheap replica watch we are about to explore is a bit different in a way that at first look it’s just another “regular” Omega Geneve. Upon closer inspection however, we realize how wrong we were. Meet the Omega Geneve manual wind Chronometer.

First, let’s have a look at the specifications: 33 mm diameter, round, Unicoc (or monocoqe), 18k solid gold case. Inside beats Omega’s caliber 602, based on caliber 601 with an added bonus of being Chronometer certified.

To understand the significance of this watch we have to understand the movement that’s in it. The caliber 602 – as said before – is a variation on Omega’s base caliber 601 that was used for probably thousands of watches at the time. However, the caliber 602 was only used in this Omega Geneve with reference number 137.0001. If you happen to have Omega’s a Journey Through Time book, it clearly mentions the watch with this movement as being “rare”.

According to various sources, only 4000 pieces were produced of this Omega Geneve watch. That is not all, as the caliber 602 is a manual wind and not an automatic movement. Until recently – when Omega released the Seamaster Railmaster Chronometer – this Omega Geneva ref. 137.0001 was the last manual wind movement produced by Omega.

Omega Geneve

A 1968 Italian catalog featuring the Geneve Chronotmeter (scan by Steve Waddington)

The case is also pretty special. I have mentioned before that it is housed in a Unicoc – or monocoqe – case. This is the so called front-loader case used by many Seamaster models as well for instance. Access to the movement has to be made through the dial side by removing the crystal and crown with a special tool – Tool 105. These cases were used to provide water resistance to the watch yet I do not think anybody ever thought about taking it under water even when it was new.

The watch came with 3 case variations; 18K yellow, pink and white gold as well as 14K yellow gold. You can check whether yours is 18 or 14 Carat gold by finding the hallmark on the lug of the watch. Compared to modern standards this is a relatively small and thin dress watch.

DSC_0143The dial is very plain, simple and classy with some added “spice”. Journey Through Time has the following description of it:

“…sun-brushed silver dial, minute circle with strokes, polished and riveted baquette hour markers, gold baton hands with a black line…”

Under 12 o’clock you see the applied Omega logo, same logo you would find on the early Speedmaster dials for example. Under the logo it says “Omega” and then comes the spice. Under Omega you can read: “Chronometer Officially Certified”. The name “Genéve“is above the 6 o’clock as you would find with most the basic models. Pretty decent looking dial if you ask me. Not too busy but still interesting.

This replica watches for men flies under the radar for most watch guys unless they really know what they are dealing with. The monetary value might never reach the price of an Ed White Speedy much less a vintage Rolex Submariner for that matter but it is a very important piece in the history of Omega, a rare find and a great conversation starter. I have only come across one for sale recently and not many articles cover the topic either.

Dive Watch Friday: Hands-on with the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph

In 2008, Geneva-based brand Clerc launched a dive high quality replica watches that was rather different from anything else in the category: The Clerc Hydroscaph introduced, among other features, a unique, octagonal bezel design and an unusual locking mechanism to operate it. It also features an ultra-complex case construction and flexible lugs. Three years later, the increasingly prominent range was extended with an even more complex chronograph version, which we at DiveIntoWatches.comfinally had the chance to review.

There are quite a few different versions of the Hydroscaph “Central Chronograph” available and most of them are limited to 500 pieces or less. Pictured here is the CHY 585 with black steel case (DLC) and a proprietary rubber strap which is fitted using two spring bars on each end. Alternatively, you can opt for other versions, with stainless steel (with or without DLC coating), rose gold, or carbon fiber components, and choose from several different dial and strap colors.

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In all versions, the Hydroscaph’s lugs are flexible in order to better adjust to different wrist sizes – a good thing, since the chronograph measures at least 44 mm (if you exclude the lateral protector), or nearly 50 mm if you take everything except the crown into account. Thanks to the compact lugs, the Hydroscaph wears smaller than the numbers suggest, but the total size, including the crown, might be a bit too much for smaller wrist sizes.

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Should the chronograph turn out to be too large for you, both the Hydroscaph GMT and the standard automatic H1 model offer a very similar look but with a more compact case.

Clerc states that the 500-meter water-resistant case alone is made of 103 components, and if some of them were in fact supposed to act as more conveniently replaceable protectors (e.g., the lateral add-on on the left side) then this would in theory allow an interesting approach as regards durability and, perhaps most of all, maintenance. Nevertheless, the unidirectional bezel, chronograph pushers and crown are probably a lot more likely to attract scratches and bumps, which might neutralize the benefit of removable case parts but still enhance the “technical” appearance of the fashion replica watch.

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At 10 o’clock the Hydroscaph features one of its signature elements: the bezel (120 clicks) can only be operated if the flap is retracted (similar to the screws used for camera plates); you can then either manually rotate the crown (which moves the bezel) or just rotate the bezel counter-clockwise by hand (automatically rotating the crown simultaneously), which offers a nice tactile sensation. As with every bezel-locking mechanism available (such as those on the Omega Ploprof or Hublot Oceanographic), the increased safety comes with a price: it would certainly be a lot more challenging to operate the bezel under water (especially when wearing gloves) than with a standard dive cheap luxury watch, but from an engineering point of view it still offers a very interesting approach without being too visually dominant. Also worth mentioning: the four beveled sections of the bezel offer a surprisingly good grip considering the lack of any additional engravings.

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Since the chronograph functions are conveniently located centrally, you could even just use the orange hand (minutes) with the white central hand (seconds) if you are not planning a dive longer than 60 minutes. Otherwise you’d have a perfect way to additionally measure decompression stops. When not in use, the two hands are stacked one atop the other.

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At 9 o’clock there’s a 24-hour display with day/night indication; at 3 o’clock, the running seconds hand. Interestingly, in this version only the minute hand seems to be covered with luminescent substance. which is of course the most consequential hand, but this decision doesn’t allow the wearer to make a quick check of the seconds hand in the dark to see if the watch is functioning– or to read the current time outdoors at night. We’re a bit torn, but would have preferred brighter lume in any case.

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At least this model’s color scheme helps to better distinguish the white minute hand from the orange hour hand, and other versions seem to have both hands covered in lume.

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The Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph is powered by a C608 automatic movement. We presume it is a modified ETA 2892 caliber equipped with a module. It is partially visible thanks to two small, porthole-like sapphire crystals in the caseback.

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In short: if you have always felt that all dive discount fake watches look the same, you’d have to admit that Clerc has certainly managed to approach the category differently. Both in terms of look and functions, the Hydroscaph is a refreshing alternative, with a unique look and several interesting design features. And even though its price suggests that it should not be used (abused?) as a tool watch, you certainly feel that it was developed with the diver in mind. Last but not least, with a central chronograph and 24-hour display, the Clerc Hydroscaph even offers some very useful complications for a lot of applications. So if you are looking for a diver that stands out of the crowd, you might want to give the Hydroscaph family a closer look.

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