Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime

Breitling introduced its first Unitimer model — a self-winding world-time watch, now a sought-after collectors’ item — in the 1950s. At the 2012 Baselworld watch fair, the brand unveiled the updated version, the Transocean Chronograph Unitime, a timepiece that expresses the brand’s classical, aviation-inspired theme with technical innovations and a striking, modern design.

The tag heuer replica watches features Caliber B05, based on Breitling’s first in-house movement, automatic chronograph Caliber B01, introduced in 2009. In addition to its chronograph functions, this movement (which has also subsequently been used in a Breitling for Bentley watch) is outfitted with a patented mechanism that allows the wearer, when changing time zones, to adjust all the indications simply by turning the crown. (Click on the photos below for larger images.)

Breitling Transocean Chrono Unitime on strap

The system uses two moving disks, one indicating 24 hours and the other bearing the names of 24 world cities representing the 24 major time zones. The time shown by the central hands corresponds with the timezone displayed at 12 o’clock. The city disk (which is available in several different languages) also has indications for daylight savings times. To change the time zone, the wearer simply pulls out the crown and turns it forward or backward in one-hour increments, which simultaneously corrects the central hour hand, the 24-hour disk, and even the date, which is indicated in a window at 4:30, in either direction. A traveler can then see at a glance what time it is in any other time zone in the world, including his home zone. The central minutes hand and seconds hand will continue to run during this operation without interruption; if the chronograph is switched on, it, too, continues running undisturbed.

The high quality replica watch is offered in both a rose-gold and stainless-steel case, on either a leather strap or a steel Milanese bracelet. The dial options are black or “polar” white, each with an elegantly rendered globe design in the center, surrounded by sundials for the chronograph counters (at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock) and small seconds (at 9 o’clock). Like its brethren in the Breitling line, the Transocean Chronograph Unitime is officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss testing agency COSC. The U.S. retail price is $11,200.

Breitling Transocean Chrono Unitime on bracelet

Technical Characteristics:
Movement: Breitling manufacture Caliber 05, automatic, COSC-certified chronometer; 28,000 vph;
56 jewels; over 70-hour power reserve.

Functions: 1/4th-second chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters; world-time indication;
calendar

Case: Stainless steel or 18k rose gold; diameter = 46 mm; convex sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides; water-resistant to 100 meters; on Barenia leather, crocodile leather strap; steel version also on steel mesh “Milanese” bracelet

Breitling Transocean Chrono Unitime white dial/bracelet

Breitling Transocean Chrono Unitime black dial/strap

Omega Geneve – A Rare Chronometer

When watch lovers look at the Omega Geneve collection most of them think about the lower valued so called entry-level vintage Omegas. It is wide known among Omega collectors that back in the day when Omega introduced the Geneve collection it was meant to be one of the flagship lines of the brand though. By the mid- to late 1960s Omega shifted their attention.

The Speedmaster collection was very successful (and we all know why). The Seamaster collection with its diver discount fake  watches was also doing great and with the introduction of a few new Seamaster chronographs the brand was getting to a wider audience than ever before. Older collections like the Omega Geneve was re-positioned and put in the market as a entry-level watch.

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Omega Geneve

The designs of the 1970s Omega Geneve watches were outstanding nonetheless. So many different shapes and colors hardly any other Omega collection could compete with that. The cheap replica watch we are about to explore is a bit different in a way that at first look it’s just another “regular” Omega Geneve. Upon closer inspection however, we realize how wrong we were. Meet the Omega Geneve manual wind Chronometer.

First, let’s have a look at the specifications: 33 mm diameter, round, Unicoc (or monocoqe), 18k solid gold case. Inside beats Omega’s caliber 602, based on caliber 601 with an added bonus of being Chronometer certified.

To understand the significance of this watch we have to understand the movement that’s in it. The caliber 602 – as said before – is a variation on Omega’s base caliber 601 that was used for probably thousands of watches at the time. However, the caliber 602 was only used in this Omega Geneve with reference number 137.0001. If you happen to have Omega’s a Journey Through Time book, it clearly mentions the watch with this movement as being “rare”.

According to various sources, only 4000 pieces were produced of this Omega Geneve watch. That is not all, as the caliber 602 is a manual wind and not an automatic movement. Until recently – when Omega released the Seamaster Railmaster Chronometer – this Omega Geneva ref. 137.0001 was the last manual wind movement produced by Omega.

Omega Geneve

A 1968 Italian catalog featuring the Geneve Chronotmeter (scan by Steve Waddington)

The case is also pretty special. I have mentioned before that it is housed in a Unicoc – or monocoqe – case. This is the so called front-loader case used by many Seamaster models as well for instance. Access to the movement has to be made through the dial side by removing the crystal and crown with a special tool – Tool 105. These cases were used to provide water resistance to the watch yet I do not think anybody ever thought about taking it under water even when it was new.

The watch came with 3 case variations; 18K yellow, pink and white gold as well as 14K yellow gold. You can check whether yours is 18 or 14 Carat gold by finding the hallmark on the lug of the watch. Compared to modern standards this is a relatively small and thin dress watch.

DSC_0143The dial is very plain, simple and classy with some added “spice”. Journey Through Time has the following description of it:

“…sun-brushed silver dial, minute circle with strokes, polished and riveted baquette hour markers, gold baton hands with a black line…”

Under 12 o’clock you see the applied Omega logo, same logo you would find on the early Speedmaster dials for example. Under the logo it says “Omega” and then comes the spice. Under Omega you can read: “Chronometer Officially Certified”. The name “Genéve“is above the 6 o’clock as you would find with most the basic models. Pretty decent looking dial if you ask me. Not too busy but still interesting.

This replica watches for men flies under the radar for most watch guys unless they really know what they are dealing with. The monetary value might never reach the price of an Ed White Speedy much less a vintage Rolex Submariner for that matter but it is a very important piece in the history of Omega, a rare find and a great conversation starter. I have only come across one for sale recently and not many articles cover the topic either.